As the Shetland Islands celebrate new rules stopping public bodies from putting the island in a box on official maps, Jorunn Fiske Clouston explains the many things to see and do there; the perfect island-hopping destination.
I am lucky enough to get to travel to Shetland through my work. The first trip I had there was one week into starting the job; now well over 12 years ago!
I remember thinking how rugged and hilly the mainland was, quite dissimilar to the Orkney mainland, where I live. What instantly caught my eye was the sheer number of colourful timber-built houses. Shetland was flirting with my Norwegian self before I’d even reached Lerwick! Shetland has close ties to Norway going far back in history, which comes out strong. Today, examples of this can be seen in place and street names, the Shetland dialect and the number of Norwegian boats or yachts tied up in the harbour at any given time.
The Mainland is packed full of lovely places to visit and experience, in addition to Lerwick itself. I will highlight a few gems:
The breathtaking volcanic cliffs at Eshaness on the East coast with the wild North Atlantic throwing its best at them, a must see for any geology buff and generally anyone who loves a bit of wild nature in action.
Past the village of Vidlin in the north east mainland, you find the oldest church still in use in Shetland: Lunna Kirk. It possibly dates back as far as 12th century, but was last rebuilt in 1753. Lunna House is also here with its WW2 connections and Lunna Ness is good for its wildlife.
St Ninian’s Isle with the largest tombolo (a natural sand causeway) in the UK, situated in the South Mainland. One of the most beautiful beaches you will see.
The village of Scalloway, the once ancient capital of Shetland.
When it comes to the isles, there are a few ‘must sees’ for me. Firstly, the island of Noss. This is a National Nature Reserve and is a fantastic experience, from viewing it when walking down the brae on the east coast of Bressay, to the short Zodiac ferry crossing over Noss sound, the always friendly and knowledgeable Noss wardens and the refreshing walk anti-clockwise round the island with beautiful scenery all the way. You are very likely to see puffins close up underway, and at the highest point of Noss, the vertical cliff edge of the Noup, are thousands of breeding seabirds like fulmars, guillemots, razorbills and the spectacular gannets. Hundreds of diving gannets is an amazing spectacle!
Access to the island of Noss is only possible during the summer season, from early May to end of August. Boat tours around the island are also available from Lerwick.
Secondly, the northernmost island of Unst is well worth a visit. Again, it has a National Nature Reserve; Hermaness. This is another heaven for people who enjoy walking, coastal cliff landscapes and flora, seabirds and also lighthouses! Plenty of other things to see on Unst worth mentioning are the boat museum, heritage centre, the Second World War radar station and MoD Radar base at Saxa Vord.
Not to be missed while on Unst is ‘Bobby’s Bus Shelter’ in Baltasound! It has a different theme every year, and gets decorated accordingly.
Unst is reached by two ferry crossings from mainland Shetland; Toft to Ulsta on Yell then Gutcher to Belmont on Unst.
Eateries I would recommend in Lerwick are Fjara Café Bar on Sea road, Havly Café on Charlotte street, Fort Café and Take Away for their fish & chips and Hay’s Dock at Shetland Museum and Archives. Da Steakhoose on Mounthooly street is a lovely restaurant for an evening meal and drinks.
For accommodation, B&Bs Fort Charlotte or Alder Lodge Guest Houses are very comfortable, have great hosts and serve superb breakfasts. There are also several excellent self-catering options to be found in Lerwick.
Loganair fly to Sumburgh daily from all Scottish main airports and Orkney Airport. If you prefer going the long route by sea, there are daily NorthLink sailings from Aberdeen, some of which stop in past Orkney on route.
You can also visit a website dedicated to Shetland with lots of useful information.
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