Look no further, Flora Thomson explains exactly who Coll girl really is...
No it’s not what you think! It’s the name of my friend’s boat in Coll – a 15 foot clinker-built sailing vessel gently slumbering on her side in port waiting for her owner to rouse her. She remains a girl even although she is old in years. That’s the thing about boats – they are always female in the Gaelic language and always young – Girl Susan, Boy James etc.
On my first visit to the Isle of Coll, I arrive by ferry from Barra via Tiree, a short four-hour hop in my unmistakeable Cool Rose Metallic Honda. This journey can only be accomplished from Barra on a Wednesday, otherwise it is normally undertaken from the CalMac hub of Oban.
Arinagour looks familiar probably because I’ve read all the Katie Morag books based on the Isle of Struay – Coll to me and you. Arinagour is the main settlement on Coll where you will find most of the local services including the post office, petrol station, shops and accommodation. I am met by my friend in her 4x4 (a portent of things to come) who suggests that we have our dinner in the Coll Hotel as it is 7 o’clock in the evening. The Hotel has a cosy, comforting atmosphere and the sea air has whetted my appetite. The menu could not be more local with a rich bounty of Coll shellfish. However, being contrary I decide to order steak which is delicious and cooked to perfection. My friend has the equally scrumptious Coll lamb with harissa.
As I drive north from Arinagour I am struck by the topographical similarities to Barra with its winding road, rocky outcrops, glistening sandy beaches. My friend tells me that there are more than 20 to choose from! Dusk is falling and I am reminded that Coll has some of the darkest skies in Europe, making it a fantastic place for stargazing. It was officially recognised as a Dark Sky Community in December 2013.
We arrive at Sorisdale village in the north-east and the end of the public road. I follow the 4x4 in my trusty, pink Honda dodging rabbit holes the size of craters; traversing a sandy stream; stopping off to pump water from the well; opening and closing gates and womanfully guiding the car along the track that leads to my destination – and what a destination! I am met by a panorama that could only be captured using a Hasselblad x-pan camera. Views of Ben More on the Isle of Mull, Ardnamurchan and the Small Isles prevail and of course the Cairns of Coll which are now owned by the prolific writer Alexander McCall Smith.
I cannot wait to explore the rest of this little gem of an island, but the Honda will be rested after being severely tested!
If you're interested in visiting the Isle of Coll, CalMac have a few different route options. You can also fly to Tiree via Loganair and get the ferry to Coll from there.
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