Morven MacNeil shares her experiences of the magical Isle of Barra in the Outer Hebrides.
The view from the ferry entering Castlebay is truly captivating – you pass the legendary Kisimul Castle, the stronghold of the clan MacNeils. The Castle is situated on a rock in the bay and is one of the few medieval castles to survive in the Western Isles. If you want to experience it in all its glory, walk to the tower house and peer down into the dungeons where they let their prisoners drown as the tide came in, (yes...the MacNeils meant business) there’s day trips to the Castle during the summer months that can be booked through Historic Environment Scotland.
The beaches, where do I start with the beaches? I’ve never experienced the splendour of such white sands anywhere else in the world. Whether it’s visiting them in the glorious sunshine or squelching through the sand in the pouring rain, it’s so calming and soothing – there’s nothing like it on this earth. Close your eyes for a moment and hear the crashing waves hurtling towards you...time stands still. All your problems are forgotten during that perfect moment...it’s sheer solitude. My favourite beach on Barra has to be Traigh Eais in Eoligarry – it’s right across from the airport terminal and if you’re lucky enough (as I was a few years ago) the plane will hover above you on a clear and sunny day and the co-pilot will give you a friendly wave!
That leads me nicely onto Barra Airport; it’s worth visiting the place solely to land there. Why, you ask? Well, the airport is a beach, yes, you get to land on the actual beach. Loganair offer direct daily flights from Glasgow on a twin-otter plane. On a choppy day it’s not for the faint hearted but it’s totally worth it for all the views that await you. On a clear day you’ll get to peer over places like Coll, Tiree before flying into the spectacular views of Barra. I have many videos of landing there and I’d urge you to have a look and see it for yourself.
Hillwalking is something else I’d recommend doing on Barra – there’s loads of them! Heaval is the highest one (it has a 384m ascent) and forms a dramatic backdrop to Castlebay. It can be quite steep in places so I’d advise you wear proper walking shoes and take your time and enjoy the views. The last time I climbed it, my friend and I had a celebratory cider and watched the ferry travelling towards Barra in the distance.
Are you into your gin? Isle of Barra Distillers is a new addition to this entrepreneurial island. Barra Atlantic Gin’s all important ingredient is its carrageen, straight from the shores of the island. I’ve tried it a few times since it was launched last year and you will not be disappointed. The local team now have a shop for visitors so pop in and sample it for yourselves.
I can wholeheartedly understand why people leave their city dwellings and move to this perfect little island right bang in the middle of nowhere – it’s been my happy place from the first time I set eyes on it thirty-odd years ago.
Visit it, experience it, love it like I do.
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