Amanda Millar explores the breathtaking scenery of the Isle of Harris as part of a family island hopping adventure in the Outer Hebrides.
Yes there are a lot of midges, yes it rains a lot, yes it’s windy most of the time, yes the roads are really twisty and mainly single track but, still, the Isle of Harris is one of my favourite places. As long as you are aware of this beforehand, you can forget about them and just enjoy everything this small remote island has to offer.
To clarify, I am not big on bird watching, fishing or hill walking...if you are, I bet there is loads for you, but sadly I cannot elaborate!
We normally travel by car on the ferry. There are buses on the island but I think you would really struggle to see a lot. We have thought about taking our bikes but haven’t braved it yet – the roads are quiet enough that traffic isn’t a worry but it’s quite hilly in places. My favourite spot to stay is Rodel which sits at the Southern tip of the island. It’s not too far from Leverburgh which is the second largest village after Tarbert. Leverburgh has a shop that sells essential groceries and The Anchorage restaurant down by the pier does fab fresh seafood and has a view that is not too shabby either.
Just along the road north of Leverburgh is Croft 36 at Northton-a small honesty hut where the owner puts freshly made food to take away. Absolutely not to be missed! It’s just your luck on the day what’s on offer but that’s part of the fun. Get there before it’s all gone though! And check the midge status before you find a picnic table to eat it at…we had to run for cover after our pasties were invaded by the wee buggers! They also offer a meal delivery service to your accommodation if you are not too far away. I had the best beef bourguignon I think I’ve ever had and my husband had an amazing fish curry.
There is also a nice little beach at the end of the road at Northton that we discovered. We got there just as the sun was setting and it was glorious. Basically it’s all about the beaches on Harris. Rain, hail or howling gale-they are breathtaking regardless. They are vast, unspoilt and almost always deserted. In fact you almost feel a bit cheated if you go and find someone else there! Luskentyre beach looks over to Taransay where the BBC reality series Castaway was set-one of the eco pods that was lived in by the participants can be seen on the road heading towards Luskentyre. As you drive towards the beach, you will also pass the home of Harris tweed maker Donald John Mackay MBE. There is no obvious signage, just a tin shed in the garden which is where he weaves the tweed and has done for many many years. If he is there you can pop in and he will maybe give you a wee demo, it is fascinating to watch. Across the bay from Luskentyre is Seilebost beach. When the tide is right out, the view is just spectacular. I think this is probably my favourite beach, nice short walk through the field down to it and the turquoise sea seems more prominent in this spot somehow. There is also a campsite nearby which is right by the beach.
If you want to make a trip to Tarbert from the south at Rodel I would recommend driving the golden road-so called apparently as it cost so much money to construct. The scenery is dramatic and the winding single track road is not for the faint hearted! Just near the Tarbert end of the road at Geocrab is Skoon Gallery-a small gallery with works by a local artist. This is the one and only time we have ever bought an original painting and it has pride of place in our living room. The homemade scones are very good too! Tarbert is the largest village and is home to a large Harris Tweed shop and the recently opened Isle of Harris distillery. Their whisky won’t be ready for a good few years yet so for the moment it’s all about the gin. It’s an impressive building right by the ferry terminal and tours are available although I’ve not done one yet as they weren’t running at the time we were there. What I have done however, is sampled the gin and it has become one of my favourites! It’s not cheap though so it is definitely a special treat! Best served with a slice of pink grapefruit and be sure to keep the bottle after it’s done...great with some fairy lights inside!
If you’re perhaps after a slightly less expensive souvenir head to Buth Bheag for some handmade candles. They have scents named after the beaches so you can pick your favourite which is a really nice memento.
There is no doubt that the Isle of Harris is not the easiest place in the world to get to but it is most definitely worth the effort…you will not be disappointed, I hope it captures your heart as it has mine!
If you fancy visiting the Isle of Harris, you can plan your trip with the latest CalMac ferry timetable or search for Loganair flights to Stornoway.
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